Facts and figures
Planting & harvest times of Radish
Direct sowing from Early March to Late August. After a growing period of 25 days, harvest can begin around Late March and continues until Late September.
Sow Radish
You can sow radishes outdoors from the end of February if you choose the right variety. Sow one seed every 5 cm in shallow drills with 15 cm between rows. It's best to sow small batches every 14 days, as they should be used up quickly once they're ready.
Location and soil
Radishes like it sunny and airy with good garden soil. Ideally humus-rich, loamy and consistently moist.
Good and bad companions of Radish
Radishes are the perfect gap fillers in the bed. They grow best in a row with lettuce, because the lettuce is said to keep the flea beetles off them, and long before the lettuce is big, the radishes have been harvested. As a marker crop, mix a few radish seeds in with carrots, parsnips, parsley or salsify. They come up within a few days, show you where the rows are and thin things out as soon as you harvest them. Between young cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumbers, courgettes, peas and dwarf beans there is also enough room at the start for a row of radishes. Better not to put rocket, Chinese cabbage and pak choi right next to them, because together they all attract flea beetles.
- Pest control through scent or camouflage
- Practical tip for this pair
- Pest control through scent or camouflage
- Practical tip for this pair
- Pest control through scent or camouflage
- Practical tip for this pair
- Pest control through scent or camouflage
- Practical tip for this pair
- Pest control through scent or camouflage
- Practical tip for this pair
- Pest control through scent or camouflage
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Practical tip for this pair
- Pest control through scent or camouflage
- Practical tip for this pair
- Shared pest is attracted or multiplies
- Shared pest is attracted or multiplies
- Shared pest is attracted or multiplies
Predecessors and successors of Radish
Radishes only occupy the bed for three to four weeks, which makes them a good early crop ahead of tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, melons, New Zealand spinach, peppers, dwarf beans or beetroot. People also like to sow them before lettuce and cabbage, but radishes belong to the brassica family themselves and can bring in cabbage root fly and clubroot. After cabbage, rocket, cress and other brassicas, wait four years before you sow radishes again, because clubroot and the pupae of the cabbage root fly are waiting in the soil. Radishes and winter radishes only return to the same bed after three to four years, otherwise you risk black root rot. On chalky soil, leave a year after potatoes, because radishes easily pick up scab there.
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Self-incompatibility
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Self-incompatibility
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Self-incompatibility
- Loosens soil, improves soil structure
- Weed suppression for the next crop
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Self-incompatibility
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Self-incompatibility
- Shared soil-borne pathogen
- Self-incompatibility
Varieties
There are varieties for every season. Some for particularly early sowing, others that can handle the summer heat, and so on.
Care and fertilising
Radishes are light feeders. They don't need any extra fertiliser while growing. Just keep them evenly moist. Otherwise they turn woody and bolt.
Diseases and pests
The radish's worst enemy is the flea beetle. In May and during dry spells, these small jumping beetles chew holes in the leaves and can wipe out a whole sowing. A fine insect mesh with a mesh size of no more than 0.8 mm, put over the bed right after sowing, keeps them out reliably, and steady moisture helps as well. From May onwards the cabbage root fly lays its eggs on the radishes, and its maggots eat brown tunnels into the roots. The net stops them too. Never sow radishes in beds where clubroot or radish black root rot has shown up. Slugs love the young leaves just as much.
Harvest and processing
It's best to harvest them fresh, as they don't keep for long. If you do store them, put them in a small container with a lid or wrap them in a damp cloth in the fridge. But even then only for 3 days at most — after that they go hollow inside and become inedible. The harvest window is quite short before they turn woody. That's why it's best to keep sowing small batches regularly.
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