Brussels sprouts

Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera
Botanical name
Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera
Plant category
Cabbage vegetables

General

Brussels sprouts
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Brussels sprouts are among the hardiest of all cabbages when it comes to winter cold. They also have the highest vitamin C content, making them a valuable winter vegetable. Depending on the variety, you can harvest them right through to the following spring — so you'll always have fresh veg from the plot, even in the depths of winter.

Facts and figures

Light requirements
Sun / partial shade
Nutrient requirements
Heavy feeder
Difficulty level
Intermediate
Culture (according to Gertrud Franck)
A - tall or wide crops, almost year-round, B - late
Growing period
165 days
Row spacing
50 cm
Plant spacing
50 cm
Growth height
60 - 90 cm
Sowing depth
2 cm
Germination temperature (minimum)
8 °C
Germination temperature (optimal)
18 - 22 °C
Germination type
Light and dark
Pre-growing period
60 days

Times

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
Direct sowing
Pre-grow
Transplant
Harvest
Harvest (next year)

Direct sowing from Late March to Early May. Transplant to bed from Mid May to Late June. Pre-grow about 60 days before planting out, approximately between Mid March and Late April. After a growing period of 165 days, harvest can begin around Mid October and continues until Mid March next year.

Sowing and planting

You can sow directly from mid to late March, but starting them off indoors from early to mid March is the better option. After a few days of hardening off, you can then plant them out in the bed from early to mid May. It's a good idea to add a small amount of organic fertiliser into the planting hole when you set them out.

Location and soil

As heavy feeders, they prefer a good garden soil enriched with plenty of compost in a sunny spot. Brassicas don't like acidic soil, so add some lime if needed.

Neighbourhood

Growing them near alliums can cause growth to stall. Strawberries and a few others don't sit well with them either. But you can happily plant them alongside peppers, lamb's lettuce and radicchio, among others.

Good neighbours
Bad neighbours

Crop rotation

As always, don't plant the same crop in the same spot for several years, and close relatives like other brassicas don't make good predecessors or successors either. Members of the allium family and a few others also don't get on well with brassicas in rotation. There are, however, a few that work well — parsnips, chard and beetroot can follow or precede them without any trouble.

Very good predecessors
Good predecessors
Bad predecessors
Very bad predecessors
Good successors
Bad successors
Very bad successors

Care and fertilising

To protect them from cabbage white butterflies or whitefly, you can plant celery between the brassicas or cover them with crop protection netting. One or two feeds with organic fertiliser and/or watering with plant teas or liquid manures help provide the nutrients they need and keep the plants healthy. During the main growing period, always make sure they get enough water.

Harvest and processing

Depending on the weather and how well they've grown, you can harvest the sprouts from late autumn through to spring whenever it's frost-free. Pick from the bottom upwards — new ones keep forming higher up the stem. In spring, you can also harvest and use the small savoy-like head that forms at the top. The sprouts are still perfectly good to eat even when they've started to open slightly. These tender little sprouts cook quickly and are brilliant for a fast stir-fry.